Massimotavio Pizza in Suginami City, Tokyo
As our list of reviews of pizza restaurants in Tokyo continues to expand, we present this very enthusiastic review of Massimotavio Pizza, located a few minutes from Eifukucho Station in Suginami City, Tokyo.
It took me a little while for the temptation to try Massimovatio to take root. I hadn’t spent much time in Western Tokyo, but looking at the pictures online something about the “old fashion” look of that place kept me curious. I made a plan. I stopped by for lunch. I had an amazing meal and I knew I’d be back.
Tokyo’s Massimotavio pizzeria makes an extraordinary pizza, easily in the top 10 for Tokyo. I confess I have only tried one of the many pizzas on the menu, but I liked it so much, I ate it again on my second visit. This review is basically a love letter, because I love this spot.
Please, take a long look at this pizza.
Massimotavio occupies two floors of an old building (called 六本木ファイブビル) near Eifuku Station. While the outside of the building is shabby, sub-urban Japanese, as you walk inside the interior open ups to a space that is much larger than most businesses in central Tokyo. Continuing past the cluttered threshold, it took me a minute to shed any expectations, and to relax into the local vibe of this place; immediately I was having a very different kind of Tokyo pizza experience.
The shop is named after the man that wields the peel; Massimotavio is his name. As I walked up the stairs on my first visit, I heard a warm “bonjourno.” I couldn’t see the source of the voice, but I now know it was the pizza master himself; like the captain of the ship, he calls out to greet his guests.
Massimotavio feels less like modern Tokyo and more like a family pizza restaurant from an Italian neighborhood. I am sure it should remind me of Italy, but as an American it reminded me of New York, and the 100 year-old restaurants run by Italians in America’s greatest city.
The menu is extensive, with a sprawling list of dishes of all kinds (all of them Italian), including pasta (tried one of their pasta dishes on the second visit, fantastic). As always, though, my focus is on the potential of the pizza.
On the pizza menu at Massimotavio: 21 Pizza Rosse (red sauce pizzas); 19 Pizza Bianche (white pizzas).
You want to see some examples?
I wrote down this one:
End (エンド) Pizza: Mozzarella, Fresh Tomatoes, Eggplant, Zucchini, Oregano, Anchovy Sauce, Parmesan Cheese
— From the Massimotavio pizza menu
Why did I take a note on that particular one? To be honest, I’m not sure… but I bet that Anchovy Sauce caught my eye.
On my second trip, I wrote this one down:
Shikika Dore Mae Pizza: Mozzarella, Mushrooms, Bacon, Squid, Eggplant, Zucchini, Parmigiano, Black Pepper
— From the pizza menu at Massimotavio Pizza
Bacon and squid. Oh, yeah. At this moment, I would pounce on a pizza with that set-up. However…
On both my first visit and my second visit, I ordered the exact same pizza. It was so unbelievably good the first time, I could not even consider ordering anything else. And on my second time… it was even better.
And that pizza was:
Pescatore Pizza: Shrimp, Squid, Octopus, Clams, Mussels, Anchovies, Capers, Oregano
— On the Massimotavio pizza menu
On that first visit, my pizza as part of a lunch set. I took some notes about the salad.
Not fancy or gourmet, but fresh, like a very nice family salad. Dressing was a light, bright vinaigrette (maybe some lemon?).
— From my notes from my first visit to Massimotavio
Then, of course, the pizza. Oh, what a fantastic pizza.
Before I could taste it, that “seafood soup” smell hit me. Garlic, and “frutti de mare.” Just a banquet of rich, wonderful smells. Before I could even take a bite, wonderful.
And then that first bite: Ahh. Uhh. Ohh. This is painfully good pizza.
Imagine an explosively perfect pasta sauce, loaded up on not just a slice of pizza, but a slice built upon incredible dough. The sauce and the dough comingling in a bite, wonderfully satisfying even before you even taste the seafood.
The Pescatore Pizza at Massimotavio is heavily laden, a feast; whole baby octopus the size of a child’s bath toy, whole shrimp (with tails), squid sliced thin, both muscles and clams (the clams still have their shells on as they lay on the crust).
As my pizza showed up, I was dazzled. I took a few notes (for this review). I had a bite. I took a few more notes…
As I was not immediately eating the pizza, Mr Massimotavio began to gently scold me from his position, across the room, by the pizza oven. He pressed his eyes together and said that my pizza was getting cold. As I looked up, he said, “Joke! joke!” With his white face, I had been expected to hear English, but hearing him tease me through a thick accent, I was beginning to learn he is actually Italian.
On both of my first two visits to his shop, I made notes about “butter.” I have no inside information, but butter is part of the impression I get from this pizza:
I wonder if the seafood has butter involved in some way? Every bite is amazing.
From my second visit:
Could it be butter? What on earth does he do to set up such a stupendous pizza? Maybe the seafood is done in a garlic butter sauce, before, or as it hits the oven?
Flavors upon flavors, coming in like actors delivering key lines of dialog in a play. Tomato at one moment, a bold caper, a blast of garlic.
Another bite, another enthusiastic “ummhhh!” A tomato sauce that is more than just “sweet;” rich tomato, and then, in almost every bite a sense of either garlic or herbs. Fantastic.
I recently wrote a very critical review of the over-hyped Risto Pizza. I mention that here to draw a contrast between the sauce used on these two, very different pizzas. While I happen to have the opinion that Peppe is paying someone to suggest his shop makes a good pizza, his sauce is overwhelmingly sweet and monotonous. At Massimotavio, you have an unforgettable sauce, truly worthy of praise.
This seafood pizza at Massimotavio comes to the table looking very “wet.” (Maybe he gives it a big pour of olive oil before he sends it off to your table?) I did not think I would be able to pick it up, and yet… with a solid fold… at least after it had cooled a bit… you can pick up a slice.
Despite being initially “soupy,” I assume you can pick up a slice because the crust is sturdy, and not “paper thin” – which I appreciate. The crust is thicker than many Napoletana-style pizzas in Tokyo, maybe a little denser. Crispy in all the right places. Absolutely delicious flavor.
On my second visit, I had more time, and I ate every bit of that extremely fine pizza. As I wrapped up the meal, I was doing the “fare la scarpetta” (sop up the sauce with the crust) thing. Dragging the last chunk of crust across the plate (like a Zamboni), I caught a caper in the mix… a brilliant bitter contrast against the tomato seafood spectacle.
Massimotavio is very warm, friendly, family place – with the pizza master talking back and forth with patrons across the restaurant; everyone seemed like friends.
On my first visit, I was in a rush and I didn’t have time to finish my meal. As I was leaving, Massimativo took some time to chat me up. I had left one slice on the plate, he crushed his brow; “the pizza?,” he said, looking wounded, as if I had broken his heart. And then, he smiled.
He is running a big operation in that shop, and doing it in style. Excellent pizza. Completely charming man.
Someday (soon), I will go back yet again. And next time, I swear, I will do my best to order one of the other pizzas on his menu. I expect I will be dazzled, yet again.
I am in awe of this pizza. Highly recommended.
For more Tokyo Pizza see:
— Truly excellent Neapolitan pizza at Pizza Marumo in Ebisu, Tokyo
— The world-famous, omakase-style pizza experience at Pizza Bar on 38th, in the Mandarin Oriental in Chou City, Tokyo
— Pizza Studio Tamaki in Rippongi, Tokyo
— Sabasu Pizza in Akasaka, Tokyo
— Savoy Pizza Domi-LA in Asabujuban, in Minato City, Tokyo
— Bonta Italia pizza in Sarugakucho, Shibuya, Tokyo
— Pizzakaya in Minato City, Tokyo
— Devil Craft Pizza in Kanda, in Chuo City, and also the DevilCraft Gotanda, in Shinagawa, Tokyo
— Pinsa at Bonta Italia in Sarugakucho, Shibuya, Tokyo
— Pizza Strada in Azabujuban, Minato City, Tokyo
— Shibuya pizza at Kevelos, in Tokyo
— Frey’s Famous Pizza in Rippongi, Tokyo
— Seirinkan Pizza and Beatles music in Meguro, Tokyo
— The Komazawa Napoli Sta’ Ca” Pizza in Setagaya City, Tokyo
— Risto Pizza in Azabudai, Minato City, Tokyo
— Chicago-style pizza at Butcher Republic in Ebisu, Tokyo
Pizza Slices in Tokyo
— Rocco’s New York Style Pizza slices in Ojihoncho, Kita City, Tokyo
— High-quality gourmet pizza slices at Tonyz Pizza Slices in Koto City, Tokyo
— Pizza slices at Nim’s in Azabujuban, in Minato City, Tokyo
— Very mediocre pizza at Pizza Slice on Cat Street, in Shibuya, Tokyo